Wednesday, September 1, 2010

How Long Will A Cohiba Last

... LIKE NEW YORK AND WASHINGTON - July 1962


HOW IT ALL BEGAN ...

In 1962, when it was 15 years, go to America (especially without parents!) is THE trip. The America of that time is that of John F. Kennedy, Elvis Presley, rock n 'roll, Marilyn Monroe, West Side Story, passenger liners, skyscrapers, exuberance. Everything is great, everything is (obviously) beauty. This is the land of the free ... except for blacks, but before leaving, I had not the slightest suspicion. I was just conscious of being privileged.

THE AMERICAN DREAM!

was the time when the visa was granted and for free, forever, provided they have time to spare. The candidate for the trip was to arrive at the opening of the embassy, fill out a bunch of forms and wait until you call his name. He was received by Vice-Consul in person for an exclusive interview with the main question struck me: "Are you communist ? ! At that age, not my political views leaning neither to right nor left, I was received for consideration by the first shot!

When I look back at this episode, it has hardly changed. Except that we do not ask you more if you're a communist, but if you ... terrorist! Who would be naive to boast, one may ask.

remained to be vaccinated against smallpox and to target the right document. A small golden yellow book, passport, hard to get for that did not used to traveling and been bitten in a center official.


DEPARTURE

Le Bourget, Wednesday, July 11. A day that has so influenced my life that I long served as a reference, like a second birth. There was the BEFORE and then the After July 62.

We were a group of 118 passengers, schoolchildren and teachers from all over France, embarking on board of an old Super Constellation a U.S. charter airline: CAPITOL AIRWAYS. Even the television news cameras turned to record the event, each trying to emerge from the stream heads to "get on TV . We were guests in the lounge of the airport for a cocktail and a reminder of the exploits of Charles Lindberg, 35 years earlier.


much I want to go to America to steal. Since I knew I would be part of the trip, I spent my time drawing airplanes, to the detriment of some courses. I found it. I imagined her shiny fuselage in one piece with the wings connected to the center, so what was my disappointment - what about my worry! - When I realized it was actually composed several metal plates riveted!

But in 1962, we did not like the plane now. It was probably the first flight of all, even among adults. And each of exploring some of the security features available to us: belts, life jackets, aided by three hostesses, beautiful dolls with beautiful smile.

We took off late in the afternoon for a short hop from a few hours anyway to redo the full in Shannon, Ireland, for the general jump. After the new

off our four-vibrating plate when all of the fixed point, a long night ahead of us. We were flying at 4,000 feet, which pales in today's era reactor. Obviously at this altitude the winds were not favorable to us, especially for a crossing from east to west.

After a sleepless night, I feel the unit starting its descent. As soon as we can see the ground, a big surprise waiting for us. The landscape is as pine forests and snow patches. That is New York? Great disappointment. The feel tired and our English is very academic. We did not understand that we had to land in Gander (Newfoundland) for an unscheduled stop, cause weather.

few hours later, we had already become familiar with the formalities of taking off. Last step: finally New York. I remember a very special breakfast made something gray that looked like a sausage with mashed brown turned out to be the apple sauce and a waffle terry, all washed down with tomato juice and coffee. This was my first experience with the proper American taste for fine dining. A few hours later, we are treated to a new plateau with minced meat, peas huge, very hard and a green that looked suspicious as he was green.

After a checkered green and yellow dotted with farms, pass beneath our wings in U.S. cities cutting geometry. Anyone who may have their noses glued to the window and never tire of expressing their joy, surprise. It boggles the imagination.

Fourteen hours (yes!) After our takeoff from Paris, we trod American soil, amazed by what surrounded us.


Everything was over-sized ... same temperature: 92 degrees! And it was apparently a mild summer this year. Shock for those who do not know that it corresponded to 33 ° C, which is already huge at 10 am. Upon boarding the bus that took us to our hotel, we were going to get acquainted with air conditioning. What was going very fast in a more disturbing.

is still often the case in the U.S., if it's hot outside, public institutions are coolers, freezers sometimes !

Highway to three lanes leads to the tunnel toll (25 cents in 1962) of 4.5 km which passes under the East River and soon we saw our first buildings. The oldest are made of red brick, newer concrete, glass and steel. It is a real discovery that these skyscrapers.

We are in town when suddenly a crisis of hilarity across the bus: the American way! In France, we had never seen anything like it and especially not in town. A girl in shorts, but shorts that were not so short as that. One who wore purple long (well below the knee) was walking, feet in black socks, themselves in high heels. On her head she wore a bobble hat incredible green. It was already like that in America, he would have to get used to it! Later, we would see mothers, decked roller-curlers, pushing baby in a pram, girls in pants, accessory, available in the feminine, just beginning to make a tentative appearance here. And then obese. Already. A phenomenon that could have seen that at the Foire du Trone. But all good complex world without exposing himself, without anyone turns on them ... except us!

Another shock, taxis in New York. Besides the yellow cabs legendary world, one company had found one for his screaming vermilion on the cover of undulating spinach in the middle of its two wings. From the top of our bus, a clamor arose: in the middle of that pile of chrome that are huge cars, one sees a Dauphine all gray, tiny, as lost.

I will not dwell on the Henry Hudson Hotel where we stayed 58th Street, which if m'apparu luxurious and comfortable, greeted us, rather we piled four to a room. In this regard, the U.S. organizers had decided that we would bring together four people following the list in alphabetical order ... regardless of the mix of girls to boys, teenagers / adults! While our head is rather practiced what he called "gender segregation" in regard to teens.


GOOD MORNING AMERICA!

I have very few photos to illustrate this "report". The following texts are drawn for some, a collective writing by all participants, revised according to my sauce and my personal memories - A great exercise to work on his memory than to relive those old travel! - The trip took place over several days which I know much more about it ... far from it all.

Club Four

Baggage barely raised their stomachs again filled with a Minneapolis psychiatrist as nice breakfast for us French, eyes crinkled by the brightness and lack of sleep, we embark on a Circle Line boat for an excursion around the island Manhattan.
We will not see the liner France, which docks in a few days.



I had an idea of the question before you go ...

Then for a quick lunch, it is the "Automat," a uniquely American invention of the time: jolting, a treadmill is running, fast, too fast to allow time make a choice among all these unknown dishes, so you need to have the reflex and the decisiveness to not miss a step! No question of hesitation otherwise the meat and cold salads coveted turns into spaghetti bolognese. For drinks, a small penny to put in the slot. No need to explain, since these infernal machines made their appearance here.


UNITED NATIONS

In the lobby, high across the facade of the building of the General Assembly, a pendulum Foucaud scored his immobility, while the earth revolves around him. The model of the first Sputnik (a gift from the Russians) did for him. Against a wall, shivering and naked black Zeus in air conditioning. In a courtyard, the bell Peace with melted coins of 75 nations, based on a slab offered by Israel.

I will spare you the description of the role of the United Nations that everyone can know by visiting: http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organisation_des_Nations_unies
Otherwise directly to the UN website: http://www.un.org/fr/

After visiting different rooms, we pass by the Economic Council. Silence and prohibition of photographing, the Council is meeting. You can follow discussions using helmets in which we hear a familiar language, our own, via simultaneous translation.

Although I myself am of translation and post-synchronization of movies, I'm always appreciative for the fact that "live". It is a work without a net which I am absolutely incapable, at least professionally.

detour to the Hammarskjold Library and its gushing fountain, a gift from schoolchildren.

Throughout the visit, we noted: an authentic Inca shawl 3,000 years old, a gift from Peru, a tapestry from Belgium and shown in shades of yellow and blue UN war between two countries, a huge Persian carpet of red with many beautiful flowers and many other things ...


ROCKEFELLER CENTER

We label each group with the distinctive color. The Americans were already well organized for tourism.

In 1801, it was here that gardens and pastures. In 1920, a district of nightclubs. In 1962 we discovered a city within the city: 16 buildings, shops, offices and even a post office. One journalist we interviewed, a photographer takes us a portrait. Tomorrow we will see in the New York World Telegram. "
In terms of size, number of tenants and employees, the figures at the time we gave already dizzy.
At the risk of a stiff neck, we're all nose in the air. On a fresco on the ceiling: three men. The first represents the past with his empty hourglass, the second, one foot in the present, the other in the future, turns his back on the past. The last symbol of the future with its hourglass full, this looks to learn lessons. And this regardless of where you look.

Then we enter the hall of the Radio and Television, 20 meters high, draperies each weighing a ton and a half, and the two heaviest chandeliers in the world: 2 tons of copper and crystal! The theater can accommodate 6,200 spectators for two hours of film and one hour variety, is continuous from 10 am to midnight. In the lobby, to make us wait, we will see the first color TV ... what a disappointment! The tone was dull, too pastel, and the image not very sharp.

This continued for some time in the United States. Nothing to see Secam with our process, we have waited much longer, but in terms of color rendition was unbeatable. Cocorico!

During the stay, individually, I returned to Radio City Music Hall. I remember the movie title that day: "That Touch of Mink" with Cary Grant and Doris Day, glamorous, and then a show with dancers, topless as the Lido, highlight of the show the arrival of an elephant on stage! In the room, on the back of the chair before him, a mini dashboard. By pressing a button, a red bulb was replace green to indicate that the seat was now occupied. Ingenious. And to be quiet, my girlfriends and I have lit red all the seats around!

The tour continues. The fastest elevator in the world (in 1962) leads us to the 65th floor, then another to the observation deck on the 70th, for a breathtaking view.

Re-descent by the same means, and the dinner we gather in the basement. This is where we discover that "scallop" does not mean steak, but Saint-Jacques shell. Too bad for those who believe that eating veal! The evening

culminate in New York by night, his limousine for billionaires go, its sumptuous quarters, but as leprosy throughout poor neighborhoods. We will cross Greenwich Village and its boxes where we have fun, and China Town still busy at this late hour.

The next morning, we left the Big Apple (who does this nickname since 1970) by highway. It is a little less than 400 km to get to Washington. The speed limit is 80 km, respected by everyone, the journey seems endless.

width highways leaves us speechless.

Anyone old enough to remember, in 1962 our motorway network was very limited ... and much narrower.

It borrows the bridge over the Delaware River, the second in the world after the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco. Our Tancarville seems suddenly very "small" compared to this giant.

We'll break in a "cafeteria", a word unknown to us. A joyous crowd jostles it. Very carefully incoiffées girls, dirty tennis shoes, socks white mid-calf (Summun the "sexy" overseas Altantic) account ATMs: Nylon stockings (3 colors, 4 sizes), lipstick (6 shades), chewing gum, perfume, soap, and even insurance life. For a few dollars, you can continue your journey, your loved ones to be free from want!

Amazing America ...

Once restored, we go back in our bus. After miles and miles of black faces seen on the doorsteps of houses hideous suburbs of Washington, we settle finally at the hotel "EATING ANNAPOLIS, very luxurious him. The staff is black, indifferent to our good mood and our smiles.

The end of the afternoon, free time for everyone. It gives us a plan on which neighborhoods are shaded (black) not to attend. Young people on one side, the other adults. We are surprised that people in the street we dock. In 1962, France - for much longer - still enjoyed a certain aura about the American people. Passersby heard us speak French we stopped trying to initiate dialogue. It was hilarious gibberish that we used to be understood! We could not stop, look at his plan without a person offers his help.

is still often the case.

adults, themselves, curious, brave or perhaps unconscious, have defied the ban of the authorities by traveling to black neighborhoods.

already difficult night because of jet lag yet fully resolved, was interrupted constantly by the scream of sirens from police cars that passed under our windows.


WASHINGTON

For me it was a new shock. If I had been filled by New York, I found Capital very ugly and very provincial. Nothing to do with America that I see coming.

Here, no skyscrapers, buildings should not exceed the height of the Washington Monument, the obelisk (not Egyptian) planted at the end of the Mall. With its 170 meters high, it was the tallest monument in the world until the construction of the Eiffel Tower.

And then it rained. I saw everything in black and gray .... We were amazed to see here such a population density of color and miserable.

I went back there in 1995, with other eyes. I matured. This again, I enjoyed the relative calm of this city of magnificent monuments, parks and flower relaxing away from the hustle and bustle of New York. But my daughter, then aged 15 years also has had the same reaction as me 33 years ago.


THE WAX MUSEUM

The staging and the expression patterns of this museum, we were not published as realistic as those of our Grevin Museum. It traces the key moments that made U.S. history. At the Mayflower Today, going without regard to chronology, Nathan Hale, Henry Ford, Charles Lindbergh, Edison, Einstein, Sheapard, and others.


THE WHITE HOUSE

For a rainy Sunday, enjoying free time with my girlfriends, we decided to go see the White House not scheduled. Caressing probably hoping to see Jackie and John together walk the lawns of the presidential residence.
At the time, I had to think, "bof", even if today I'd say it's a beautiful house. What I marked the most is the number of squirrels that ran on its gardens. All red, while in the park across Pennsylvania Avenue, they were gray.

In fact, with references that I gained through my travels U.S., it would be two totally different species ... and maybe not even squirrels!



THE CAPITOL

I was still impressed. It is simply monstrous and beautiful, even if it lacks the head here!



I spend its description you can find on:
http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capitole_des_États-Unis_d America

Virtually every U.S. Capitols other states are built on the same model, in this neo-classical. That of Louisiana, from the megalomania of Huey Long, is nevertheless one of the exceptions, like his former Capitol, a sort of small castle of the neo-Gothic.


THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION

Its red brick gives the "Institution" On the one hand very British. Normal was founded by a Briton, James Smithson, for the promotion and dissemination of knowledge. This austerity houses the Museum of Aviation, Arts, Science and Industry. Based at Le Bourget in the footsteps of Lindbergh, it was not found by the Spirit of St Louis, side by side with the capsule Sheapard.

For lunch, a "Seafood Restaurant" reconcile us time to eat with the kitchen.

LINCOLN MEMORIAL


We visited the Lincoln Memorial, the Chairman of white marble, standing huge and masterly in the center of a monument of Greek inspiration, before crossing the Potomac River via a bridge that leads us to the cemetery American heroes in Arlington, Virginia, near the Pentagon.



Arlington Cemetery

The moment is solemn.

At the top of the U.S. Marine Corps War Memorial flying the American flag, hoisted the only one left overnight in the territory, we were told. Other

moving moment, the changing of the guard in the rain at the Tomb of Unknown Soldiers.




MOUNT VERNON

We embark on a mini-cruise on the Potomac River which is extra-wide as an arm of the sea Destination: Mount Vernon, Virginia, where is the former home of President George Washington. It is also his final resting place because there is buried alongside his wife, Martha. Immaculately kept, this house has revived imagination, its occupants in their original furnishings.




BACK TO NEW YORK

last night off ... with absolute ban to travel to Harlem. The next morning, a morning shopping in a stormy downpour, looking for the unusual gift which alone could symbolize America. Although difficult to find, the market being flooded with memories of "Made in Japan". I remember my father bought a small baseball player whose head is mounted on springs, nodding with each jolt. He was proud to show off his brand new P60! I found the photo.
It dipped as soups that we find that our luggage left at the hotel, had already died at the airport. It only remained for us the electric hand dryers washroom of the hotel - another discovery - to make our clothes fit a little at a flight home.


THE FLIGHT BACK NEW YORK - PARIS

This extraordinary journey - and because he was restricted to young people very modest resources and staff - could be completed in a way ordinary. The God of Travel was going to ensure that the night set upon one of the engines of our Super-Constellation. All the passengers seemed to sleep. Not me - I could never sleep on a plane, not even extended business class - I had a view of the turbo-propeller in question which tore the cover flapping on its propeller "flag". J’ai regardé une hôtesse, un point d’interrogation dans les yeux. Elle ne paraissait pas inquiète, et a simplement posé un doigt sur ses lèvres comme pour dire : « shuuuut ! ». Curieux déjà, on avait fait une escale imprévue à Gander où on nous avait pesés individuellement. Après de longues heures à voler sur ses trois moteurs, l’appareil entama sa descente. On nous distribua des consignes de sécurité traduite à la hâte en Français … pour un amerrissage d’urgence ! En espérant tout de même pouvoir atteindre les côtes irlandaises enfin proches. Finalement, nous allions atterrir sans encombres, à Shannon, comme à the go.

Restored, watered - very good true Irish Coffee, but a bit much for kids! - We would have to wait long. In order to carry out important repairs that needed to pursue a safe trip, the captain had to refer in high places, which will be located in San Francisco, 9 hours difference. So we had to wait 18 hours Irish time, it is 9 o'clock in the morning California time office opening and the presence of the corresponding airline.
Permission granted, repair was carried out promptly and we could re-launch, late, very late to arrive at night at Le Bourget, probably with a derogation.
Behind the windows, relatives and friends waving, very excited: for hours and hours, the speaker was trying to be patient and reassure them had lost much of its effectiveness ...

As to me, it was decided: I'm an air hostess! ... To the dismay of my parents.

In conclusion, the head of our group has been much speculation about the future this country. A country where, despite the goodwill of Kennedy, was still raging hard racial segregation. A country with the means of production to abolish its own misery, but reserved for whites only.
Today, with a black president in the White House, we can only see a certain evolution of mentalities, but the wealth, as elsewhere, continue to be unevenly distributed, now that the population is black or white.


For my daughter, since his birth, travels over and over with or without us, the content of these lines must seem totally crazy! She was fortunate to always know the world, but is that really a chance? Only did he not missed that part of the dream we all had in 1962, discovering America for the first time?